Jordan Winemaking Team circa 1990 -
Rob Davis, André Tchelistcheff and
Bocky Tamagni
Winemaker Rob Davis reveals the history of winemaking at Jordan and the man who inspired it all...
Almost four decades ago, Tom Jordan studied the wine list at San Francisco's legendary Ernie's restaurant. A West Coast institution made famous in Alfred Hitchock's "Vertigo," the eatery was housed in one of the only commercial buildings to survive the horrific fire in 1906. It's only fitting that a supper club with such a storied past would also be the site of a new birth: the inspiration for Jordan Winery.
Upon the suggestion of the restaurant's sommelier, Tom chose a 1968 Georges de la Tour made by wine Maestro André Tchelistcheff, a legend in California winemaking. Tom had recently traveled throughout France's wine country, and had fallen in love with the style and beauty of French wines, especially those from the Bordeaux region. He'd since been entertaining the idea of creating a similar wine in California's then up-and-coming wine country—but he wasn't sure if it was possible. After tasting André's wine, Tom no longer had any doubts—he knew that he could make incredible wines in California's Alexander Valley region, but only if he had André as his winemaker. And with that first taste, that first swirl of André's perfect wine, Jordan Winery had begun.
Now, 33 years after the first row of grapes was planted on the Jordan estate, Winemaker Rob Davis sits in the winery's rich library, a sun-filled room decorated with mahogany accents and plush upholstery. Around the walls, antique winemaking artifacts and photos tell the story of the history of California wines. Rob echoes their narrative, telling, instead, his own history with Jordan Wines, and that of the man who inspired him all along the way.
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"One of the best things Tom Jordan ever could have done was hire André Tchelistcheff," Rob says. "I don't think he could have created a better wine with any other winemaker."
After falling in love with André's wine, Tom began taking steps to make his vision a reality. André was wary of taking on the entire job himself, as he was already in his 70s at the time. Eventually, he decided to act instead as a consultant and mentor to a budding winemaker of his choosing. In 1976, Rob Davis was one of 16 graduates of the University of California at Davis' fermentation science program, and he was handpicked to serve as André's right hand, his student, his protégé, and, eventually, the man to carry on his legacy. The two bonded immediately. "He was more than 70 years old, but he was a man with so much information to give and so much passion for life that I really enjoyed being around him," Rob says. "Working with him was to enjoy the same type of atmosphere I had at the university, one where I was constantly learning and being challenged."
With that bond, they worked together to first create, and then continue, the growing tradition of fine Jordan Wines. Now, so many years later, Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are staying true to the vision Tom Jordan dreamed of that night at Ernie's. This year, Jordan Winery topped Wine & Spirit's restaurant poll of top-selling brands. The Jordan brand snagged the first overall slot, and in the individual categories, the Cabernet Sauvignon was ranked second and the Chardonnay placed fifth.
Ronald Du Preez and Rob Davis inspect vines.
While Rob Davis successfully completed his transition from apprentice to master winemaker many years ago, he's now shifting into a new role—that of teacher. In 2003, he hired assistant winemaker Ronald Du Preez from South Africa's Stellenbosch University. He was the perfect man for the job. "Ronald has the same passion for the wine that I do, the same passion that André had," says Rob. And Ronald's lilting South African accent aside, he's now a true Northern Californian at heart. "Rob is one of the main reasons why I have loved working here so much," says Ronald. "He's an incredible winemaker and an even more incredible mentor."
André died in April of 1994, and "he was working until the day he died," says Rob. "He had such a passion for it." But in spite of his death, Rob's wine will always carry the spirit of André Tchelistcheff. "To me, he's still alive. Ronald and I will be in the vineyard tasting, and I'll just feel that he's there tasting with us," says Rob. "I've been through the school of Davis, and then the school of André, and I'm still going through that. He'll always be with me."
By Lizzie Carlson, Photo by Jamie Elvidge
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