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Braised Ramps with Onaga

In the hills and valleys of the Appalachia, the wild leek or ramp is the culinary harbinger of spring. This first allium of the season is at once garlic and scallion, with a pungent and pleasing complexity. As the great Hawaiian fish, onaga or ruby snapper, nears the end of its season, we celebrate these spring delicacies by pairing them with Jordan Chardonnay.


Pair with: Jordan Chardonnay
For the sauce and ramps
 
In a heavy-bottomed sauce pan over medium-high heat, sweat shallots in 1 tablespoon of butter until just translucent, about 2 minutes. Raise heat to high. Add Chardonnay and Champagne vinegar, and reduce to ¼ cup. Add cream and simmer to thicken for another 2 minutes.
 
Whisk in remaining butter over low heat. When the mixture is smooth, add ramps and braise over lowest possible heat until just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
 
For the onaga
 
Preheat a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat and add oil. Lightly salt the onaga. When oil begins to shimmer, add onaga, skin side down. If it begins to buckle, gently flatten with a spatula to ensure even cooking. When skin has crisped, turn the filets and cook until just opaque. Remove fish from the pan before it begins to flake apart.
 
To serve
 
Arrange a portion of ramps on each plate and spoon sauce over it. Place onaga on top and finish with a salad of scallion and shiso or other combination of tender spring greens.
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